Travel Guide to Florianopolis Brazil
Down on the southern coast of Brazil there’s a local’s secret that has all the Brazilians flocking to. It’s an island in the state of Santa Catarina called Florianopolis - known for incredible hikes, gorgeous beaches, and waves surfers dream about.
Arrival & Transportation
You won’t find many international flight services directly to Florianopolis, especially if you are coming from outside of South America. Likely if you are traveling straight to Florianopolis (“Floripa”), you will need to transfer through a larger hub such as Rio de Janeiro or São Paulo. That being said, it is very popular among Brazilians themselves, so getting there within Brazil is relatively easy.
Arriving
Air: If you are flying into Floripa, you will likely arrive into Hercílio Luz International Airport (FLN) which is about 12 km from downtown Florianopolis. This is the largest airport on the island and the most easily accessible with many domestic flights from airlines such as Gol or Azul where you can expect prices of $100 - $300 USD (depending on the season and timing).
Bus: If you have extra time but are tight on cash, you can take an overnight bus from Rio de Janeiro to Florianopolis. It takes roughly 18 hours and costs around $70 USD. It will likely leave in the afternoon from Rio and arrive very early into Florianopolis the following day. We took some overnight buses in Brazil and they were not bad as overnight buses go.
Boat: Though Florianopolis is an island, it’s connected by a large bridge so you don’t need to worry about taking a boat. And while taking a boat around the island is a fine way to spend the day, better to stick with ground transportation for arriving and managing your luggage.
Getting around
Florianopolis is a relatively small island, drivable from north to south in roughly 2 hours. However, keep in mind that there are limited roads so if there is a holiday or it is busy season the roads can get very congested. Especially going from north to south, this road can be blocked for hours. We’d suggest going north in the morning or late at night after the rush hour excitement. Going south is mostly free of traffic no matter the time, though you might see some slow downs in the very northern part as this is the most popular part of the island.
Renting a Car: If you plan on trying to explore the island and doing some of the hikes we would highly recommend renting a car. Many of the best hikes are on the south side of the island without regular bus schedules, if buses even reach them at all. Also if you plan on trying to catch the sunrise anywhere other than where you are staying, a car is highly convenient. The island is quite diverse with many different coves and types of beaches ranging from steep cliffs, to sandy beaches, to high winds for kite surfing and parasailing. We liked the freedom of being able to experience them all!
Buses: For the main parts of Florianopolis, particularly the north side there is a cheap line that runs straight from the center out to the coast for only about $2 USD per ride. Keep in mind there are 3 different main lines TIRIO (Rio Tavares Terminal) for southern beaches, TILAG (Lagoa da Conceição Terminal) for eastern beaches and TICAN (Canasvieiras Terminal) for Canasvieiras and northern beaches. The yellow lines tend to be cheaper as they don’t have as many of the nicer additions such as air conditioning or additional space. Also if going to the southern or eastern beaches you may have to change buses at least once so keep that in mind for timing.
Taxi: Taxi’s are another great option as a hybrid approach to transport, though make sure if you are going to a less popular destination, you can either arrange for a pick up prior or you have some way of getting to an area with taxis available. If you have phone service, Easy Taxi is a great app for catching taxis in Brazil. Be aware depending on the time of year there may be more or less taxis on the island.
What to do
Surfing - Floripa is a big hot spot for some of the major surf circuits, but be aware the waves are very seasonal. If your looking to catch the largest swell, plan to go April - October (which is Brazilian winter so plan to bring a wet suit). Some beaches to consider when looking for surf are Brava beach, Joaquina beach, Galheta beach and Matadeiro beach. When we went it was December, and there was unfortunately no swell.
Beach Hikes - This had to be our absolute favorite part of the island. There are some really impressive views on Florianopolis, but be warned, they are not for the faint of heart. Mostly located on the south side, you’ll find epic views at the top of cliffs leading to beautiful lagoons of turquoise water, but the hikes are steep, long, and most likely hot (depending on the time of year). We tend to hike on most of our trips, though wouldn’t claim to be expert hikers, and found it to be very challenging. But on the other hand locals were brining their kids and hiking with coolers on their shoulders so go figure. Some of the top hikes we’d recommend are:
Logoinha do Leste - This is either an all day or half day affair as round trip you’ll be hiking for at least 3 hours so make sure and prepare with enough water and snacks. To begin you’ll find the trail head just outside of Pantano Do sul. You can go into town and ask a local or follow a sign thats along the main road jsut before you get into town. From here you will park your car and start hiking over the first hill to get into the beach which will take 45 mins -1 hours and is quite tiresome in itself. Here you’ll find a nice stretch of ocean and lake so you can take your pick on salt or fresh water swimming. It’s a nice place to cool off and catch your breath, because if you really want the best views there’s another mountain to climb. On the far left side of the beach you’ll find a large cliff that you climb almost straight up. This is the right path. it will take about 45 minutes to get up, and though its windy and pretty difficult, the views truly are remarkable.
Naufragados - know as “ship wreck beach” in portuguese, this is the southern most tip of the island. There is a nice lighthouse with a winding trail leading up to it that makes for some very beautiful shots. Again you will first hike into the cove which takes about 45 mins, and then it’s another 30-45 minutes to then end.This trail is a little less strenuous than Logoinha though the views are less dramatic. When you get to the beach again you will want to go to your far left to head to the lighthouse. If your looking for the best views though they may arguably be along the trail vs.the very end as you can see the perspective of the entire coast line and the lighthouse at the very end.
Sunrise with Campeche Island - Campeche Island is off the coast of central Florianopolis and a favorite spot for sunrise. If you catch it just right, you can watch the sun peak over the mountain and light up the ocean. If you drive over to it, you’ll know exactly where to go because most mornings there are a span of others gathered to watch sunrise here just off the side of the road.
Sand Surf the dunes - The Joaquina Dunes are known not only for their extreme white sand, but also for providing tourists the chance to not only surf the water but also the sand dunes of Florianopolis. Check into the shops around the area for places you can either buy/rent a board. Or maybe you can find some nice locals to let you join in on the fun, as they get quite popular during the busy season.
Grab some Havaianas Flip Flops - Havaianas are actually made in Brazil and you’ll find almost everyone down there wears them. They come in all different colors with a nice little Brazilian flag on all of them. Its a nice functional souvenir for the trip, though be warned they are not the best for hiking. We commonly hike in flip flops, but found many tourists along the trails with broken Havaianas when trying to go up the rocky trails. Best to wear them for just your easy long walks along the beach.
Historic Florianopolis - If you have some extra time there is a historic center with some museums and old cathedrals. There are also markets, particularly on the weekends that are bustling with merchants selling everything from clothes to food. Though this was a nice place to spend a few hours, we didn’t find it quite as charming as the old town of Paraty or Salvador with their Spanish colonial architecture.
Where to stay
Depending on how your looking to spend your trip there are a few different options on where to stay on the island. There’s no bad choice really as your surrounded by paradise wherever you go, just depends on what vibe your looking for. Keep in mind, all of Florianopolis has a true island feel to it, so don’t expect to be dazzled by 5 start hotels or Michelin Star restaurants. It’s much more laid back and simple.
North: This is the most built up in terms of infrastructure and businesses. You’ll find more of the chic and upscale places along the northern tip as well as your larger resorts. This part of the island is more touristy and the beaches can see more wind along this coast. If your looking for accessible spots with boutique shopping and posh restaurants, you’ll enjoy the north.
Majestic Palace Hotel (luxury) - Amazing rooftop pool with smart and sophisticated rooms. Great views overlooking the ocean with a great location for exploring the north side of the island.
IL Campanario Villaggio Resort (luxury) - Perfect location near the ocean and beach clubs. White colonial-styled rooms with touches of luxury and elegance. Some rooms even offer a kitchenette allowing you to really make the resort into a home away from home.
Central: Central is a good mix between the north and south in terms of being less busy and touristy, but still some of the nicer hotels/restaurants. There are some nice boutique hotels along the cost which have a bohemian vibe, perfect for relaxing in a hammock and soaking up the sun. Staying central can be nice because it puts you accessible to the excitement of the north and the rustic nature of the south.
Casa Quatro Oito (boutique) - Perched up on the mountain with a stunning poolside view out to the coast. Rooms are elegantly decorated with marble and bamboo details.
Hotel Boutique Quinta das Videiras (boutique) - Classic architecture and modern amenities. The property features cozy rooms with private balconies and original colonial furnishings. Great location for accessing the shops and towns as well as the beaches connecting both the north and south of the island.
South: The south is the least built up and touristy part of the island. During surf season, though it can get more crowded as the best waves are typically found along the southern coast. As you would imagine with surf towns, you’ll find nice hole-in-the-wall type eats with delicious but humble meals, and beach hostels giving you simple accommodations. This is where all of the best hikes on the island are and your best sunrise and sunsets. It’s also quieter if you don’t prefer the nightlife of the north, which can be nice for having a very relaxed experience.
Pousada Vila Tamarindo (Ecolodge) - Located 10 minutes from the beach and surrounded by gardens, this is the perfect place to soak up nature at an affordable price. There is an onsite yoga shala with classes as well as massage/ spa service available. The rooms are clean and roomy with recycled furniture and hammocks outside. It’s not 5 star elegance but its a nice laid back beach vibe.
Pousada Estrelas no Mar (boutique) - Run by a local family, this Pousada is located in front of Praia do Pantano do Sul Beach. They have a shared kitchen as well as a private pool for hotel guests. You can walk out straight onto the beach and access the local restaurants by foot. This hotel is actually located about a two minute walk from the trailhead for Logoinha do Leste.
Where to eat
Botanico Colheita Criativa (healthy cafe) - If your looking for bright and vibrant plates full of fresh vegetables and healthy greens this is the place for you. Great salads and hot plates decorated fresh flowers and micro greens.
Mercado Sehat Campeche (organic marketplace) - Great place to pick up some snacks or check out their fresh and seasonal menu. Something there for vegetarians, vegans, and those indulging in fresh seafood. A great atmosphere for hanging out or getting some healthy items to cook up your own meal.
Bar do Arante (iconic) - This cafe is one of the most unique restaurants in Floripa with notes and paper hanging from almost every surface. They serve an a la cart menu that changes with the seasons. Great place for a quick bite and to leave a note for later!
Pier 54 (scenic view) - Debatably one of the best restaurant views in all of Florianopolis. Overlooking the water and Herzilio Luz Bridge, they offer a tasty meal of fresh seafood and fine wines. Their chefs are very amiable to all kinds of diets from gluten free to vegan.
Best Places for Photos
Florianopolis has some of the most incredible views in Brazil. This is definitely a photographer’s dream with long stretches of beaches, white sand, and electric turquoise water next to lush green coastline. It actually somewhat reminded us of the Hawaiian islands with the chill surfer vibes and beautiful mix of jungle, mountains and ocean.
Logoinha do Leste - As mentioned above, this is one of the best viewpoints on the island. Whether you go all the way to the top of the peak or just camp out at the beach, this is definitely one of the most photogenic places on the island.
Naufragados - Also mentioned above, this hike brings stunning views no matter which way you turn. On one side you have endless coastal views and on the other side, a lighthouse and islands. After you reach the beach and start heading to the lighthouse, you’ll have the coast alongside you the whole way with absolutely breathtaking views.
Joaquina Dunes - While it’s true there are a lot of mini dunes alongside most beaches in Florianopolis, the dunes of Joaquina are the most impressive. The sand is extremely white and gives a very nice view all the way to the coast. If you want the best pictures here though make sure to come at sunrise or sunset as the reflection on the dunes is very intense in the middle of the day.
Lagoa da Conceicao- This is one of the places only really accessible by car. You can drive to the top of the hill where you’ll find a lookout with a view the lake bisecting the two sides of Florianopolis which is actually quite scenic.
Praia Mole - Centrally located and one of the most easily accessible islands on the beach. This beach has 7 km of white sand and perfect turquoise water. Depending on the wind streams, this place can be amazing for catching some waves by either kite or traditional surfing.
Praia dos Acores - The perfect sleepy little surf town with some amazing coastal views. Its surrounded by stunning mountains on both sides and makes for incredible sunrise peaking over the cliffs and sun setting on the water.
Tips Before you go
Plan to hike in the morning or late afternoon, as the sun is pretty strong during midday.
The hike to Logoinha do Leste is actually 2 hikes. The first hike is to get to the beach. Then you will have to start the second hike up to the peak on the right side of the beach. Easier said than done ;)
If you rent a car, plan to head north/south during less busy times of day. The traffic jams can cause heavy delays.
You could very easily spend a few days to a full week here, so plan to give Floripa at least 3 days if you plan on visiting!
2nd to only Rio, Florianopolis is the most traveled to spot for Brazilians on New Years Eve. The big NYE parties will happen on the north side of the island.
Let us know if you have any questions in the comments below!